As many of you know, I love surfing. I love the playful heart of the surfer, the joy riding the waves brings me and the ever changing face of my beloved ocean. Then there's Big Wave Surfing... since 2009 I have been working with the SA Big wave crew as well as some international chargers, but Oct and Dec 2012 saw me at last able to share my ideas with the Northern California crew... Here is a link to the blog written by SURFING Magazine's editor, Taylor Paul.
He has a great sense of humour... and big lungs!
" “Great, Taylor…relax…good, keep going…you still have plenty of oxygen left.”
That’s Hanli Prinsloo, South African freedive champion and our instructor for the morning, coaching me through chest contractions in a calming voice. There are eight of us here. Some abalone divers. Some big-wave surfers. Some just surfers. All looking to hold our breath longer. I am face down in the Half Moon Bay High School’s swimming pool and it’s been about two minutes since my last breath — a big one that started in my belly, went into my chest and then up to my shoulders —and my diaphragm is spasming. I’m taking fake breaths. My body is saying, “Your carbon dioxide levels are dangerously high.” And my mind is saying, “F–k you, body, we’re doing this.” But in a nicer way....