As many of you know, I love surfing. I love the playful heart of the surfer, the joy riding the waves brings me and the ever changing face of my beloved ocean. Then there's Big Wave Surfing... since 2009 I have been working with the SA Big wave crew as well as some international chargers, but Oct and Dec 2012 saw me at last able to share my ideas with the Northern California crew... Here is a link to the blog written by SURFING Magazine's editor, Taylor Paul.
He has a great sense of humour... and big lungs!
" “Great, Taylor…relax…good, keep going…you still have plenty of oxygen left.”
That’s Hanli Prinsloo, South African freedive champion and our instructor for the morning, coaching me through chest contractions in a calming voice. There are eight of us here. Some abalone divers. Some big-wave surfers. Some just surfers. All looking to hold our breath longer. I am face down in the Half Moon Bay High School’s swimming pool and it’s been about two minutes since my last breath — a big one that started in my belly, went into my chest and then up to my shoulders —and my diaphragm is spasming. I’m taking fake breaths. My body is saying, “Your carbon dioxide levels are dangerously high.” And my mind is saying, “F–k you, body, we’re doing this.” But in a nicer way....
A calmer way. Because it’s all about staying calm.
If you follow any big wave surfers on Instagram these days, you know that these breath-holding / freediving classes are en vogue right now.Heavy hitters like Ian Walsh, Derek Dunfee, Alex Gray and Shane Dorian are taking them. Because despite all the floatation devices and inflatable vests guys are using these days, when the shit hits the boardshorts all you have are your lungs. There are several different outfits that will train you to hold your breath longer, but I chose Hanli’s because Greg Long recommended it and Greg’s among the most prepared surfers I know. She has also trained most of the big wave crew in CapeTown, and those guys are as nuts and competent as any..."
EXCERPT FROM SURFING MAGAZINE online, please follow this link for the full story...